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Kenya lies astride the equator on the eastern coast of Africa. It is a medium-sized country by continental standards, covering an area of approximately 224,900 square miles (582,600 square kilometers), slightly smaller than the state of Texas. Inland lakes and waterways cover some 4,100 square miles (10,700 square kilometers), the bulk of this in Lake Victoria and Lake Turkana. Kenya is bordered by Somalia and the Indian Ocean on the east, Ethiopia to the north, Sudan to the northwest, Uganda to the west and Tanzania to the south. Its Indian Ocean coastline is about 350 miles (550 kilometers) long. Kenya enjoys tremendous topographical diversity, with the array of its landscapes ranging from glaciated mountains with snow-capped peaks to the Rift Valley with its escarpments and volcanoes, and further on to ancient granite hills, flat desert landscapes and coral reefs and islets. However, the basic topographical configuration is rather simple. Coastal plains give way to an inland plateau that rises gradually to the central highlands, which are the result of relatively recent volcanic activity associated with the formation of the rift valley. To the west, the land drops to the Nyanza plateau that surrounds the Kenyan sector of Lake Victoria. To the north, the topography drops off to the rugged low country around Lake Turkana. The Great Rift Valley, with its associated escarpments and mountains, is a major feature of the Kenyan landscape. It runs the length of the country from Lake Turkana in the north to Lake Natron on the southern border with Tanzania. The central portion of the rift is raised, with the Aberdare Mountains and Mount Kenya to the east and the Mau Escarpment and the Cherangani Hills to the west. The northernmost and southernmost sectors of the rift are low-lying, arid and rugged, with spectacular volcanic landforms. Mombasa, Kenya's second city, is located on an island off the Indian Ocean coastline and boasts a magnificent fort and harbor that have been center stage for hundreds of years of turbulent history. The beginning of the 20th century saw a railroad begin to wind its way from this port town inland towards central Africa. The railroad made it first distant outpost in a swampy highland plain that became the small town of Nairobi, now the nation's bustling capital. The rail link between Mombasa and Nairobi forged a link of national unity and become the lifeblood of Kenya. Taken together, these two distinctive cities paint a vivid portrait of Kenya. The old trading port of Mombasa and the modern skyscrapers of Nairobi work together to evidence a diverse melting pot of races and traditional and modern cultures, with a history as rich as the natural wealth of the country itself. If it weren't for Kenya, the Swahili word safari (literally, "journey") would have little currency in the modern world. Revered by anthropologists as the "cradle of humanity," Kenya is also the heart of African safari country, boasting the most diverse collection of wild animals on the African continent. Nairobi Modern Nairobi is still the safari capital of Africa, but the modern world has quickly caught up with the city. A frontier town no more, Nairobi has become one of Africa's largest cities . and, with its
One of Nairobi's most interesting features is its setting. A metropolis set down in the middle of a great wilderness, its shimmering skyscrapers can be seen by the giraffes and other wild animals that inhabit Nairobi National Park, which comprises 44 square miles (113 square kilometers) of plains, cliffs and forest right on the edge of town. Flights taking off from Nairobi's airport are observed by the park's large herds of zebra, wildebeest, buffalo and giraffe. Rhinos, cheetahs, and a large number of lions are also found here, all born free and living wild within twenty minutes of the center of the country's capital. From the wildlife to the nightlife, Nairobi is a city unlike any other. Nairobi's well-known restaurants and colorful array of shops and markets insure that there is always plenty on offer for the visitor. Mombasa The true heart of Mombasa is found in its exotic old town, among the winding dusty streets and whitewashed Arab architecture. The air here is always heavy with the scent of spices, foodstuffs
At the water's edge is Fort Jesus, an imposing fort that stands watch over the harbor. The high gun turrets, battlements and underground passages of this sixteenth-century fort were the center of a historic struggle for control of the Kenya coast between the Portuguese army and the Shirazi Arabs. This war was waged over the course of hundreds of years and countless battles, and the fort still stands as a testament to this tumultuous past. Modern Mombasa is a city of great diversity and life. This is a town were all were welcomed, including the traders from India and Arabia, and quickly absorbed into this great coastal melting pot. Mosques, Hindu temples and Christian churches all find their places on streets that thrive with a world of cultures. National
Parks and Reserves
Kenya's wilderness areas are famous worldwide. In recent years, Kenya has been progressive in instituting policies designed to protect and showcase a broad range of habitats and species. The ecosystems of Kenya's game parks and reserves are complex ecologies that depend on the conservation of diverse natural resources and systems. There has been a growing recognition that the parks, sanctuaries and conservation areas co-exist with and depend upon the communities that surround them. From the depths of a coral reef to the heights of rugged alpine mountains, from one endangered owl to a migrating herd of wildebeest more than a million strong, the Kenyan wilderness is truly a wonder to behold. Masai
Mara Game Reserve Each year, the Masai Mara plays host to one of the world's greatest natural spectacles, the wildebeest migration from the Serengeti. From July to October of each year, the promise of rain and new grass in the north brings as many as 1.5 million wildebeest together into a single
At the Mara River, they mass together on the banks until one or two of the braver ones finally plunge forward - or are pushed forward - into the raging waters, creating a frenzy as they fight against swift currents and waiting crocodiles. The wildebeest bring new life to the Masai Mara, not just through their cycle of regeneration of the grasslands, but for the predators who follow the herds. The Masai Mara has been called the "Kingdom of Lions" in honor of the regal and powerful hunters that rule its grasslands. Cheetahs are also a common sight in the Masai Mara, as are hyenas and smaller predators like the jackal. The Masai Mara is an awesome natural wonder, a place where Masai warriors share the plains with black-maned lions on the hunt, a place of mighty herds and timeless cycles of life, death and regeneration. Wildlife moves freely in and out of the reserve and through neighboring Masai lands. The Loita Hills and the Nguruman Escarpment, both considered sacred to the Masai, offer high forest trekking opportunities for the adventurous traveler. Amboseli
National Park But the even greater giant that rules over these plains is a mountain. Mount Kilimanjaro, Africa's largest mountain, lies just over the border in Tanzania, but the most impressive views of its snow-
Herds of wildebeest, zebra and impala also graze on the open plains. Amboseli's acacia forests make for good birding, and they also serve as home to many small mammals. Cheetahs are another frequent visitor. The park is centered around a large hill, with fantastic views of the surrounding plains, and is often crossed by whirlwinds that send columns of dust into the sky. The area surrounding the park is home to many Masai communities. The park covers approximately 155 square miles (400 square kilometers), with its southern boundary running along the Tanzanian border. Tsavo
East and West National Parks The vast plains of Tsavo are crossed by the main Nairobi-Mombasa railroad. This historic railway was, in 1899, the scene of one of Africa's greatest adventure stories. Two large lions actively preyed on the railway workers as they built a bridge over the Tsavo River, claiming more than 120 victims. As they evaded hunters for month after month, for well over a year, the legend of the "Maneaters of Tsavo" was born. The sheer scale of Tsavo gives the visitor a chance to really get away from it all and to explore the wild in total solitude. On safari, the visitor will typically see large herds of elephants, their hides
One of Tsavo's most interesting geographical features is the Lugard Falls, where whitewater rages through a series of spectacular rock formations. The volcanic Mzima Springs, which produce 50 million gallons of fresh water daily, should not be missed. The waters are alive with hippos and waterfowl. A unique underwater observatory has been constructed, yielding incredible views of this crystal clear underwater world, where massive hippos glide silently through swirling shoals of barbel. The springs have created a sprawling wetland paradise of giant raphia palms, an oasis alive with water birds. Mount Kenya
For non-climbers, a visit to Mount Kenya is still worthwhile. The cool highlands that surround its base, crossed by babbling brooks, are well worth a visit. The forests are ideal for game viewing, and the crystal clear streams at the foot of the mountain abound with trout. Lake Nakuru
But Lake Nakuru offers more than just its spectacular flamingos. It is also an important sanctuary for the rhino, both the black and white varieties. Rhinos, often the most difficult of the "Big Five" animals to find, can sometimes be seen resting under the acacias by the lakeshore. The park abounds with other game as well. There are several large prides of lions, in addition to huge herds of waterbucks, zebras and cape buffaloes. The endangered Rothschild giraffe also makes its home in the park. And the leopard, the other elusive member of the "Big Five," is also prevalent in Lake Nakuru. Exploring beyond the lake, where there are forests, cliffs and waterfalls, is also a worthwhile endeavor. And nearby Nakuru town, a bustling market town and a local transportation hub, is worth a visit. Lake Turkana
The lake is a source of life for some of Kenya's most remote tribes. The Turkana, with ancestral ties to Uganda, live a semi-nomadic existence along the shores of the lake. The country's smallest tribe, the El Molo, live a hunter-gatherer existence on its shores, congregating in villages of distinctively rounded reed huts. The lake enjoys the dubious distinction of being home to the world's single largest crocodile population. In Turkana, these reptiles grow to record size. Some of the largest specimens can be found on remote windswept Central Island. Lake Victoria
The Nile flows northward from the lake, carrying the waters of Nyanza to Egypt and into the Mediterranean Sea. The lake is rich in fish life, with shimmering shoals of colorful cichlids and large Nile Perch. The Nyanza province is the heartland of the Luo, a tribe with a reputation as formidable fishermen. Fishing brings many visitors to the lake, mainly in search of the Nile Perch, which is widely viewed as a world-class game fish. There are three fishing lodges on the islands scattered throughout the Kenyan portions of the lake. Kisumu is a quiet port town on the lakeshore, with wide streets and fine colonial architecture. To the south along the Kenyan shoreline, fishing villages line the broad waters of Homa Bay. The area is also home to Ruma National Park, a small but attractive park with many unique species. The best way to appreciate the beauty of the region is on the lake itself. The sun shines brightly, and gentle breezes rise from the water. In trees along the shore, fish eagles call to each other, their long haunting cries echoing across the water. Sunsets turn the waters to liquid gold, as the local fisherman pull their nets into their canoes and slowly turn for home. Swahili Coast
Along the length of this coast, Arab and Portuguese forts, old towns and the overgrown, deserted ruins of Swahili outposts, all decaying in the tropical heat, bear witness to the fascinating history of this coastal area. In the winding medieval streets and bustling markets of Lamu and Mombasa, life has continued unhurried and unchanged for more than 400 years. This blend of natural beauty and living history joins to create an exotic tropical paradise like nowhere else on earth. Lamu Lamu began its life as a fourteenth-century Swahili settlement, but the island has seen many visitors and influences in the succeeding years. Portuguese explorers, Turkish traders and Omani
For the traveler, Lamu is a hypnotically exotic experience, made even more enjoyable by the relaxed and welcoming attitudes of the local people. To visit Lamu is to enter another world. Life slows, and the resulting lengthened days are spent strolling along the waterfront, exploring the town or relaxing on the idyllic white sand beaches. People In Kenya, you can see many examples of the old ways blending in with the new. A Masai tribesman herds his cattle and goats across the plains, with the headphones of his Walkman radio planted in
To the outside world, the Masai are probably Kenya's
most familiar people. They are a strong and independent people who still
value tradition and ritual as an integral part of their everyday lives.
They regard themselves not just as occupants of the land; the land that
they occupy becomes a part of their lives, and their lives become a part
of the land that they occupy. Most Kenyans are Christians, but Muslims make up a larger proportion (approximately 30%) of the population in the eastern and coastal provinces. Travel Tips It is always advisable to carry extra film. While it is widely available in Nairobi and in most major towns (at a cheaper price than that offered in the lodges and game parks), visitors should always keep several spare rolls on hand. There is no greater disappointment than seeing that extraordinary lion - always better than the last one - at close range and then discovering that your stock of film is depleted. It is illegal to photograph Kenya's president, as well as certain other national symbols, including uniformed members of the armed forces and the national flag. For
Souvenirs and other items can be purchased more cheaply
in Nairobi and Mombasa. Prices are fixed in some places, and no bargaining
will be countenanced. Traditional Kenyan souvenirs include ebonwood carvings
of animals and local people, kiondos (traditional baskets), batiks, jewelry
and more. Temperature/Weather Across most of the country, rainfall is strongly seasonal, although its pattern, timing and extent vary greatly from place to place and from year to year. Differences in temperature vary predictably with altitude. Frost regularly occurs at elevations of 10,000 feet (3,000 meters), and occasionally at elevations as low as 7,800 feet (2,400 meters). There is permanent ice and snow at Mount Kenya's summit. The hottest parts of the country are the arid northeast and the area west of Lake Turkana, where average daytime temperatures range as high as 93° F (34° C). The main tourist season is in January and February, since the hot, dry weather at this time of year is generally considered to be the most pleasant. It is also the time of year that Kenya's magnificent bird life congregates on the shores of the Rift Valley lakes in their greatest numbers. But any time of year is a good time to visit Kenya. The months of June through September are considered the "shoulder season," because the weather is still dry. The rains generally fall between March and May (and, to a lesser extent, from October through December). During these months, things are much quieter, rooms are available and prices tend to be lower. And the rains typically have little impact on the travelers' ability to get around. Reading List
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