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If ever a region deserved to be called exotic,
northwest Yunnan's Deqen county is that region. That such
a place still exists in such pristine condition in 21st-century China
is nothing short of miraculous. Global Adrenaline is proud to offer a
journey to northwest Yunnan's Mount Kawa Karpo, which towers above the
town of Deqen. In many ways this is one of our finest trips. During the
course of the expedition, we will interact with several (in fact, 22 or
more) of China's officially recognized "minority" groups. Our
drives and hikes will take us from semi-tropical landscapes to high alpine
tundra. We will bathe in hot springs on the banks of two -- and perhaps
three -- of the world's greatest rivers, wander through climax old-growth
forests (some of the last remaining in China), explore one of the most
beautiful and uncharted mountain ranges in the world and witness the religious
customs of several distinct races. It will all culminate in our participation
in one of the planet's most sacred Buddhist pilgrimages.
To explain why you'll find it worthwhile to fly
to the other side of the world just to walk around a peak in the eastern
Himalaya - a peak that few Westerners have ever heard of - we must first
provide a little background on the region, the Tibetans who live there,
and the Buddhism they practice.
Buddhism was imported into
Tibet from India. The system of Buddhism most attractive to Tibetans
.jpg) |
| Sacred Mt. Kawa Karpo above the village of
Deqen where we begin our trek. (Eastern Tibet) |
of that era was tantric Buddhism, which is also
known as Vajrayana Buddhism. Within this system, an elaborate cosmology
and ritual process accompanied and facilitated the belief that enlightenment
is possible in this very lifetime. Certain aspects of Vajrayana Buddhism
resonated with the indigenous religion of Tibet known as Bon. One of these
resonating beliefs was the possibility that landscape could acquire sacred
status. In the Bon religion, the beliefs were more animistic - spirit forces
inhabiting rocks, forests, mountains and rivers. In Vajrayana Buddhism,
things became more refined. Initially, its adherents relied on records of
sacred landscapes in India and sought to establish their equivalents in
the land of snows they now inhabited. As time went by and Tibetans became
increasing adept as Buddhist practitioners, more and more became enlightened
masters. The places where they meditated became sacred spots in and of themselves.
Often these places of meditation had formerly been significant to followers
of Bon. When combined with the evolving Buddhist ideas, the combination
only increased the sanctity of such places.
In extreme western Tibet sits
Mount Kailash. This mountain became sacred to Hindus during Vedic times.
Buddhists also adopted the mountain as their most sacred peak, though
they changed some of the myths surrounding it. Understanding the myths
is the key to understanding the religious significance of Mount Kawa Karpo.
One of the most important gods in the Hindu religion is Shiva, the creator/destroyer.
Shiva is thought to inhabit many mountainous regions, but
.jpg) |
| Tibetan girl. (Rongbuk Monastery, Tibet) |
his chief abode is thought to be the summit of Mount
Kailash. He is often portrayed as sitting on the mountaintop with his long
matted hair flowing down. From his hair is born the most sacred of Indian
rivers, the Ganges. The Vajrayana Buddhists believe that one of their deities
(by the name of Khorlo Demchok, or, in Sanskrit, Chakrasamvara), battled
with Shiva on Mount Kailash, and won. In that victory, all spots deemed
sacred to Shiva likewise became sacred to Khorlo Demchok.
Tibetans believe that deities such as Khorlo Demchok
find representations of their body, speech and mind in physical landmarks
and topography . In Tibet, the body, speech and mind of Khorlo Demchok
are respectively represented in the following geographic landmarks: Mount
Kailash to the west, the Tsari region of south/central Tibet, and Mount
Kawa Karpo in the extreme southeast of Tibet. This belief surrounding
the abode of Khorlo Demchok, when combined with centuries of revered Tibetan
Buddhist masters sequestered away in meditation around Kawa Karpo, has
conferred sacred status on this great mountain. A more detailed discussion
of Tibetan Buddhism's belief systems can be found in the "Suggested
Reading" section of our general website page on Tibet.
Owing to Kawa Karpo's special
status in the hearts of Tibetans, it is no wonder that they come from
.jpg) |
| Tibetan monk. (Tashilhumpo Monastery - Shigatse,
Tibet) |
all over Tibet just to walk
around it. In so doing, they gain inconceivable amounts of merit, which
helps to see them through to a desirable rebirth. The pilgrimage around
Kawa Karpo is dotted with countless sites designated as sacred. As we
do the kora (referring, in the Tibetan language, to the circumambulation
of the sacred peak), we will do so in the company of pilgrims and perhaps
even lamas. This greatly adds to the experience, for our fellow pilgrims
are often able to relate to us the
fascinating details of what each sacred spot means
to them.
Kawa Karpo is the locus of many other myths, most unknown
outside the Tibetan world. One extremely unusual myth associated with
the peak is its suicide pilgrimage. Suicide is virtually unheard of in
Buddhist cultures. Yet certain guidebooks that discuss the myths surrounding
the peak make reference to a very high altitude pilgrimage, which leads
to the upper flanks of the mountain where avalanches are common. Dying
high on the mountain is thought to bring about an immediate rebirth in
one of the Buddhist Pure Lands. Needless to say, we will not make any
effort to confirm the veracity of this myth!
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As in any physical endeavor, fitness is the most
essential ingredient for success. That said, no previous Himalayan trekking
experience is needed to take part in our Tibetan trips. In general, a
love of mountains and hiking is all that is required. One should be physically
fit, meaning that one should be capable of walking a full day with a day
pack. If you have any questions about your qualifications or abilities,
those questions can be readily answered through a phone conversation with
one of our guides.
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We will arrive in Kunming, the capital of China's
Yunnan province. Our accommodations in Kunming will be at the Kunming
Hotel. However, if all trip participants arrive on early flights, we may
choose to continue on to our next destination, Lijiang, this evening,
rather than waiting until the following day.
If we haven't departed for Lijiang the previous
day, we will fly from Kunming northward to Lijiang in
 |
| East flanks of Mt. Kawa Karpo with Buddhist
Chortens (Tibet). |
the morning. Upon arriving in Lijiang, the ambitious
among us may choose to explore the fascinating old town. Others might choose
to spend the day resting and overcoming any residual jet lag. Lijiang is
an ancient stronghold of the Naxi people. The Naxi (pronounced "na-shee"),
one of China's officially recognized 56 minority groups, escaped cultural
oblivion in the early years of the 20th century (the 1920s through the 1940s),
due in part to the efforts and scholarly interest of the American plant
hunter, Joseph Rock. The Naxi practice a mix of Tibetan Buddhism and Bon,
with a strong inclination towards shamanism. Joseph Rock became fascinated
by the Naxi's unique religious beliefs, and that fascination in turn led
him to a study of the Naxi pictorial script. He eventually wrote and published,
through Harvard University, "A Naxi-English Dictionary." That
invaluable reference tool is still in use today. We will have ample opportunity
to interact with the Naxi people and to view their beautiful textiles and
other crafts in the bazaar.
To many travelers, Lijiang is a destination in
and of itself. Towering above the town is the majestic Yu Long Xue Shan
(Jade Dragon Snow Mountain). Though, by Himalayan standards, the mountain
doesn't soar to impressive heights (topping out at barely 17,600 feet,
or 5,500 meters), its peak is perennially snow-capped. For those interested
in exploring its many exciting hiking options, there will be an opportunity
to take a short day trip to the meadows below the peak.
After our days in Lijiang, we will depart for
Deqen in extreme northwest Yunnan province, on the border of the Tibet
Autonomous Region. The drive to Deqen will take us through the deep gorges
and valleys of the "Three Rivers Area," where several of the
world's greatest rivers arise.
Deqen has a long and interesting history. The
town is predominately Tibetan, but it has always been home to large populations
of Han Chinese and other minority groups. Deqen is situated at the head
of a valley, at an elevation of 11,500 feet. When Joseph Rock visited
in the early 1920s,
.jpg) |
| Tibetan man. (Sakya, Tibet) |
there were only about 500 houses in the town. Today,
there are three times that many and Deqen is a vastly different place. At
the time of Rock's initial visit, the town's population included a disproportionate
number of monks. He counted at least ten monasteries in the immediate vicinity
of Deqen, mainly of the Nyingma (old school) and Gelupa (reformed school)
sects of Tibetan Buddhism. Many of the monks had migrated to the area to
study at the Gelupa monastery of Deqen Ling, which traces its history back
to 1737. The original monastery was destroyed in 1905 by Chinese soldiers
as punishment to the Tibetan monks for the murder of several missionary
priests and the burning of the Catholic mission.
Today, Deqen is a vastly different place than it was
in Rock's day. However, unlike many Tibetan towns, it has retained a fair
amount of its Tibetan architecture. There are several rebuilt Tibetan
monasteries, including Deqen Ling, in the area. We will have time to visit
many of them. We will have at least one full day in Deqen before beginning
our trek, as well as a full day there upon our return. This will permit
us sufficient time to explore Deqen's fascinating streets and monasteries.
In addition, there will be time, for those interested, to hike to the
summit of 13,000 foot Drong-Go Ri. This peak, only 2,000 feet above the
town, offers one of the region's best views of Mount Kawa Karpo. The summit
is crowned with a meadow upon which have been laid large stone slabs.
Monks engage in meditation on these slabs while they contemplate the divine
image of "The White Pillar Snow Mountain" (the literal translation
of the words "Kawa Karpo").
The following quote is from Joseph Rock's travelogue,
inspired by his visit to Deqen in 1923:
"To reach this region is an arduous undertaking,
for it is about the most isolated in Asia. Xinjiang is certainly farther
away but motor cars and airplanes bring it closer to civilization. But
here perhaps never will the sound of a motor horn be heard, for to construct
a road over such mountainous and deep gorges is a prohibitive undertaking.
And planes? Let it be said that there is not even level space enough
to pitch a tent, much less accommodate an airplane. Thus it will remain
one of the last places to be brought close to civilization. Its scenery
is unsurpassed and awaits the lover of nature, but he must pay the price."
Despite Rock's admonition, roads have now reached
all but one of China's remote counties, including wondrous Deqen. Rock
would be amazed -- and perhaps not a little dismayed -- to see what the
roads have brought in the way of modernization. They have greatly accelerated
the process of natural resource extraction, often with devastating environmental
consequences.
From Deqen, we will begin our circumambulation of
Kawa Karpo. We will spend the next twelve days covering the 186-mile course
of our trek around the mountain.
.jpg) |
| Roof of Potala Palace. (Lhasa, Tibet). |
When spread out over a 12-day period, this initially
off-putting figure becomes manageable and attainable even to the casual
walker. The foot path that we will follow is a remnant of the old tea caravan
route that originally connected the tea plantations of central Yunnan with
Tibet.
We will begin our trek by driving out of Deqen
as far as the town of Yangtsa on the Mekong River (in Chinese, Langcang
Jiang). After our arrival in Yangtsa, we will meet our muleteers and load
up gear. Soon after setting out on our journey, we will cross a suspension
bridge over the raging Mekong. We will then immediately begin the uphill
climb to the Dokar La Pass, a goal that will occupy us for the next 2
or 3 days. We will camp that evening in the small village of Yongju.
We will continue our climb towards the Dokar La,
or "White Stone Pass" (14,384 feet). As we draw nearer our destination,
we will ascend the south side of a ridge, weaving in and out of old growth
.jpg) |
| Interacting with the locals. (Drak Yerpa, Tibet). |
forests of evergreen and rhododendron. Padma Shan
("Lotus Mountain"), one of Kawa Karpo's giant neighbors, will
loom over us for a good part of the day. We will set up our camp for the
evening in a quiet meadow.
We will follow a series of switchbacks as we approach
the pass. Our efforts of the previous three days will culminate in the
stunning views from the top of Dokar La (14,384 feet). Kawa Karpo will
be north of us at this point, but, surprisingly, there are no great views
of the mountain from the pass. As we begin our descent from the pass,
we will enter the Tsawarong district of the Tibet Autonomous Region. Several
beautiful peaks come into view as we descend. Once again, we will camp
for the night in an alpine meadow.
The next two day's trekking will provide fabulous
views of one of Mount Kawa Karpo's steep ridges, as well as views of a
series of impressive peaks, all over 19,200 feet (6,000 meters) in elevation.
The Salween River will keep us company, flowing below us to the west.
During the course of our trekking, we will cross the Lointong pass.
By this point of the trek, we will have come down
substantially in altitude. We will walk above the Salween River, eventually
descending to the point of its confluence with the Lhakang River. At this
.jpg) |
| Group atop high pass. (Everest Region, Tibet). |
point, we will be heading in a northerly direction
alongside the Salween. In the evening, we will make our camp near a hot
spring. Depending on the interests of the group, we may be able to provide
the option of a rest day at this point of the journey.
We will reenter civilization briefly near the
town of Zhanang. This small town is the administrative headquarters of
the Tsawarong district. Our campsite that night will be in full view of
several of the massif summits of the Kawa Karpo group.
We will depart Zhanang, heading north towards
the Tondu-La pass (10,688 feet). Over this two day segment of our journey,
many beautiful summits of the range will be visible. By the end of the
second day, we will have entered the heart of the gorge country. On the
evening of Day 14, we will camp in a courtyard of the Gebu monastery.
We will get an early-morning start on our climb
to the summit of the Gebu (13,120 feet), before beginning our descent
to a tributary of the Salween known as the Wei chu. From the summit of
the
.jpg) |
| Tibetan monks debating. (Sera Monastery -
Lhasa, Tibet) |
Gebu pass, fine views of the Salween/Irrawaddy divide
can be had. In the northern distance, countless peaks of the Hengduan mountains
can be seen, many in the 19,200 foot (6,000 meter) range, and almost all
of them unexplored. We may choose to fit a rest day into our schedule at
this point.
We will summit the Shu-La pass (15,424 feet),
from whence we'll begin our descent to the Mekong River. We will enjoy
stupendous views of Kawa Karpo (as well as other neighboring peaks, ranging
up to 20,800 feet, or 6,500 meters) throughout the day. Our destination
will be the town of Meili, where our 4WD vehicles will be waiting for
us to take us back to Deqen.
After returning to Deqen, we will rest for the
night. We will spend one more day in this exquisite mountain town, unless
the group voices a preference for returning to Lijiang in the afternoon
or evening.
Unless we made the drive to Lijiang on the previous
day, we will depart in the morning for our drive to Lijiang. Upon arriving
in Lijiang, there will be time to enjoy the beauty of this mountain town,
which rests in the shadow of the majestic Yu Long Xue Shan (Jade Dragon
Snow Mountain).
We will have a day to spend in Lijiang before
we transfer to Kunming for our flights home .
We will transfer to the Lijiang airport for our
flights back to Kunming. From there, we will connect to our international
flights for our return home.
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