Expedition Summary
This expedition combines our seven-day Mountaineering Introduction Course with a five-day ascent of Mount Aspiring, one of New Zealand's highest mountains. We include the mountaineering course to ensure that you have all the requisite skills to climb this challenging peak.

Mountaineering Introduction Course
If you have a yearning to learn what mountaineering is all about and you want to gain experience under the supervision of a personable and supportive guide, then the Mountaineering Introduction Course, which begins our Mount Aspiring Summit Climb, is for you. The course is designed to help you navigate your way towards the safe and successful climbing

West face of Mount Aspiring at sunset. (Mount Aspiring, New Zealand)

practices that form the foundation of a mountaineering career. We have designed a program that incorporates actual climbing skills along with theoretical components, a combination that enables you to tackle safe and successful climbing objectives. We will focus on the development of your skills at a pace which suits you. And, along the way, you will find yourself climbing peaks that will consolidate the skills you have learned.

The course is designed for those who lead an energetic lifestyle and want to take full advantage of world-class professional instruction to streamline the learning process. Participants will share the learning experience with others hungry for knowledge and skills on a course run by some of the world's leading alpinists. At the end of the course, participants will leave with the skills necessary to tackle more demanding ascents within New Zealand or to take their first steps towards Himalayan summits. Experience is imperative

Climbing in Mount Cook National Park. (Southern Alps, New Zealand - Photo by Guy Cotter)

before tackling major ascents and this course is designed to help you navigate your way towards safe and successful climbing practices.

The course also offers the benefit of training on lower altitude peaks. If your focus is on joining one of our future climbing expeditions, we recommend training in lower altitude mountain ranges such as the Southern Alps of New Zealand where many peaks top out at only 10,000 feet (approximately 3,000 meters) in height. Notwithstanding their comparatively lower summits, the peaks of the Southern Alps are similar, in terms of in ruggedness and valley-to-summit altitude gains, to the much higher peaks of the Himalaya. This setting in the Southern Alps therefore allows you to concentrate on the technical skills required for successful alpine climbing. We find that, when altitude adjustment difficulties are removed from the equation, our participants progress much more quickly. Of course, you will need to concentrate on your altitude training further down the line.

We operate our courses in several National Parks. We will select either Mount Aspiring National Park, Mount Cook National Park or Westland National Parks depending on factors such as weather and snow conditions, as well as hut occupancy rates. Of course, our primary motivation is securing the best climbing conditions at the time.

Course Objective
Irrespective of where you want your climbing career to eventually lead you, our courses will provide the essential mountaineering skills needed to get you there. In addition, we will provide the all-important self-confidence in your judgment and decision-making abilities that is an essential element for those operating in an alpine environment. Our objective with this course is to ground you in those skills that have given us success in our own climbing and Himalayan careers. Among the attributes we feel are most important are the following:

• solid climbing standard
• mountain awareness
• sound judgment of your own ability
• good planning and preparation skills
• good decision making

Course Philosophy
We will spend as much time as possible in the mountains, actually climbing peaks while

Course members arranging abseils. (Southern Alps, New Zealand)

developing our skills. Initially, we will begin in a contained environment, before moving on to more challenging routes and terrain as the course unfolds. Experiential learning is a major factor in learning how to be a competent mountaineer. The emphasis of the course is on safe application of skill development. We will increase the intensity of the program at the pace dictated by the skills and development of group participants.

Alpine climbing can involve long days. We will learn the importance of early starts, if we are to have time to gain a summit and then make our descent before nightfall. There are times when the weather will be rough and the discomfort levels may be high. Our guides manage these obstacles through consultation with the group members. Our pace and our objectives are dictated by the strength and motivation of the group as a whole.

Course Skills
The basic skills listed below are taught during the course. However, participants should bear in mind that weather, climbing conditions and similar factors may occasionally dictate our pace. Accordingly, there may be times when we don't have the opportunity to develop, at a particular juncture, a skill as completely as we otherwise would. Comprehensive course notes will be issued to all course participants. The course notes will detail the format and itinerary of the course, as well as the topics to be covered, the venue, contact names, recommended reading, maps, equipment purchase advice, rental options and a whole lot more. Our style of instruction is to learn the skills required to move safely in an alpine environment while actually climbing mountains along the way.

• trip planning
• environmental considerations
• basic to advanced snow and ice craft
• rope skills related to alpine climbing and expedition climbing (including fixed ropes)
• glacier travel and rescue skills
• weather analysis
• alpine rock climbing skills
• mountain first aid, health, high altitude medicine and acclimatization practices
• route selection and navigation
• weather analysis and forecasting
• avalanche awareness and rescue techniques
• crevasse and alpine rescue skills
• expedition camping skills, tenting, snow caving, bivouacs
• emergency shelter construction

Mount Aspiring Ascent
Mount Aspiring is a majestic, soaring peak and a challenging climb! Often referred to as "the Matterhorn of the South," and as Tititea (or "Glittering Peak") by the Maori, this impressive mountain offers varied routes of high quality from the attainable North West Ridge to the divine arete climb up the South West Ridge. Mount Aspiring National Park is famous for its tranquil beauty. On the approach to the mountain, we will traverse a high country sheep station, travel along the West Matukituki river and then pass through native beech forests into the glacial regions where we will begin our ascent. An ideal, yet challenging, first summit.

Mount Aspiring is ideal for first-time mountaineers using the North West Ridge, as well as for more technically-oriented mountaineers, who may choose the classic South West Ridge. The North West Ridge can be accessed from the Bonar Glacier by climbing up what is referred to as "The Ramp." This approach involves as many as 8 or 9 pitches of climbing on a snow / ice ramp that finally empties into a straightforward ridge climb to the summit snowcap. Alternatively, if conditions dictate, we will ascend via the entirety of the North West Ridge, which involves climbing and traversing a series of rock ledges and gendarmes leading up to the summit ridge.

Both of these routes are rewarding climbs and the least technical approaches. The key attributes of a successful summiteer are sure-footedness and endurance. An ascent of Mount Aspiring averages 14-16 hours round-trip. The walk into the Aspiring region is a beautiful - but lengthy -- walk. It will take approximately 10 to 12 hours to reach Bevan Col or Colin Todd Hut, where we will base ourselves for the climb. Many of our guests choose to utilize helicopter access to Bevan Col, which alleviates the walk in. It also enables them to arrive fresh. Another benefit of helicopter access is that it permits participants to take full advantage of fine weather periods. For this reason, we have included the price of a helicopter access flight in the trip price.

Mount Cook or Mount Tasman Ascent
Participants also have the option of summiting Mount Cook or Mount Tasman rather than Mount

Climbers navigate a serac field. (Southern Alps, New Zealand)

Aspiring. However, this option can be offered only to those with previous climbing experience. If you are interested in more information on this option, please notify us at the time of booking.

Weather Conditions
Weather plays a major factor in any mountain experience in New Zealand's Southern Alps. While we've designed a program schedule, weather influences may require us to adjust the program along the way. Weather in itself will be an important lesson for our group participants to learn. It will teach us the necessity of versatility and good, objective decision-making skills based on present and forecasted weather conditions.

The most suitable time for climbing in the Southern Alps is between November and April. In November, we can generally expect more snow on the routes. As temperatures warm up into the summer months of January and February, we traditionally experience more settled weather and mixed climbing conditions (snow, ice and rock). During March and April, late summer conditions exist, which result in a combination of rock and ice routes. However, during these months, cooling temperatures can bring snowfalls to the Alps. At this time of year, the days begin to get noticeably shorter.

Guides
Professional and experienced mountain guides run the course and guide our Mount Aspiring Summit Climb. We operate this course with a guide-to-client ratio of not more than 1 guide-to-4 clients. The Mount Aspiring Summit Climb is operated with a guide-to-client ratio of not more than 1 guide-to-2 clients. We have a commitment to ensuring the highest standards of instruction and guiding practices, and we only employ guides who share in our philosophy. Our guides will offer you the best possible learning experience, as well as a safe and enjoyable time. An open and helpful approach is encouraged within the group to help communicate and reinforce the learning process. Our guides are all NZMGA and/or UIAGM internationally qualified. They have been trained and assessed through the New Zealand Mountain Guides Association, and they operate in accordance with the high standards and guidelines set out by that association.

Throughout the trip, our guides are in radio/cell phone communication with our operations base and Department of Conservation headquarters. This contact assists us with schedule and weather forecast updates, helicopter coordination and safety back up. Urgent messages can be relayed via our office to the field if required.

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Experience Required
Participants need not have climbed before, but they should have a reasonable level of fitness and a desire to learn. To make the most of your climbing experience, we encourage you to work on your fitness prior to the trip. You will find that training with a 20 kg + pack is the best preparation for the mountains, with the aim of getting 'pack fit' and building your endurance. Your guide will place special focus on fitness levels and will regulate the pace of the course accordingly. You may also choose to develop additional skills before the course commences. If so, we recommend rope skills that can typically be learned through local alpine clubs. Previous rock or alpine climbing experience will allow you to gain even more from the course.

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Day by Day Itinerary
The following is a typical outline for the Mount Aspiring Summit Climb. Depending on local conditions prevailing at the time, we may elect to run the first part of the program (the instruction days) in alternate locations at Mount Cook or Westland National Parks.

Day 1: Arrive in Queenstown
After arriving in Queenstown, we will have leisure time to spend recovering from any residual jetlag and exploring this veritable "adventure playground" for adults.

Day 2: Travel to Wanaka
We will spend the morning relaxing in Queenstown, transferring in the afternoon to Wanaka.

Day 3: Travel to Mount Cook Village and Fly to Barron Saddle Region
We will meet our guides at Lake Wanaka, in the heart of the Southern Lakes District of the South

Learning as you go. (Southern Alps, New Zealand - Photo by Guy Cotter)

Island. We will be met by the trip leader and the assistant mountain guides, who will hold a briefing for the trip and help sort out our equipment. Any last minute purchases can be arranged at Wanaka and rental equipment will be issued. Working with the trip guides, we will establish the food needs for the trip. This will be a valuable "hands on" exercise for everybody. It is very important to ration food effectively: too much and your packs become overly heavy, too little and you'll go hungry! We will attempt to cover basic rope skills and tying on this first day, providing a quick review of skills for all participants and ensuring consistency within the group. This further enables us to hit the ground running when we arrive at the glacier later in the day.

As soon as everyone is ready, we will set off on our two-and-a-half hour drive to Mount Cook

Mount Tasman at dawn from Mount Cook. (Southern Alps, New Zealand)

Village. From there, we will board our flight into the Barron Saddle region of Mount Cook. Our guide will introduce us to the environment, and we will be taught the nomenclature of the features around us. Depending on weather and conditions, we will either set up a tent camp that evening or utilize one of the huts.

Day 4: Instruction
Crampon and ice axe techniques are learned and practiced today on the slopes near our camp. Our self-arrest practice and lessons in using crampons will increase confidence levels as we move on to steeper terrain. As we train, we will enjoy spectacular views of the Mueller Glacier, Mount Cook and many of the other Main Divide peaks. Our evening meals will be cooked by the group. Everyone will have at least one turn at the stove before the end of the trip. Each evening, we will hold group discussions on various topics; first aid and navigation may be covered if there is time tonight.

Day 5: Climbing
We will begin hands-on instruction in mountaineering and glacier travel techniques under the watchful eyes of our guides, focusing on the finer details of snow and ice anchors. We will get an early start to permit sufficient time to reach a small peak nearby, taking time to practice our snow anchoring and belaying/pitching techniques on the way. We will carry our lunches with us on this day. We will devote the afternoon to practicing abseiling and alpine rock climbing techniques. A snow bivvy is planned for the evening's camp so we will need to allow suitable time for constructing the snow cave.

Day 6: Climbing
Once again, we will depart early, this time after our night in the bivvy. We will use our recently-developed glacier travel techniques to arrive at an ice climbing area as the sun rises. Several

Climbers on the Bonar Glacier below the South Face of Mount Aspiring. (Mount Aspiring region, New Zealand)

hours are devoted to instruction on crampon and ice climbing techniques, followed by instruction on crevasse rescue systems. After tea at the camp, a lesson on weather prediction will end the day.

Day 7: Climbing
We will climb a peak today! Possibilities in the area include Mount Burns, Vampire Peak and Mount Eric. In the evening, we will continue our lessons, with instruction in navigation and weather forecasting.

Day 8: Return to Mount Cook Village and Drive to Wanaka
We will get an early start on the seven-hour walk from our camp back out to our starting point at Mount Cook Village. Once there, we will transfer to Wanaka by van (a two hour drive), stopping for a dip in Lake Pukaki on the way. The road traverses the spectacular Lindis Pass on the approach into Wanaka, where we will overnight in lodge accommodations. After our "de-briefing," in which we'll recount the week's activities and adventures, we'll head off for the showers. In the evening, we'll enjoy a meal in one of the town's many good restaurants.

Day 9: Rest Day or Half Day Rock Climbing
We will have a day in Wanaka to sort out our equipment, in preparation for our Mount Aspiring ascent. There will also be time for sightseeing and taking advantage of the many amenities Wanaka offers, including half-day rock climbing, jet boating, canyoning, tandem skydiving, kayaking and golf! You may choose to indulge in a scenic flight to Milford Sound or to take a day trip to Queenstown for some sightseeing. Rock climbing instruction is available for those who want to avail themselves of the excellent opportunities provided by Wanaka's crags. We will overnight in lodge accommodations.

Day 10: Helicopter into Aspiring Region and Camp Near Colin Todd Hut
We will rise early in the morning to finish preparing our gear for the next five days, which we'll spend on the Mount Aspiring ascent. After driving up the Matukituki Valley (where we'll hope to get

Mountaineering course exercise in glacier travel. (Southern Alps, New Zealand)

our first glimpses of Mount Aspiring), we will meet our helicopter and fly into Mount Aspiring National Park. Depending on prevailing and forecasted weather conditions, we will either utilize the tent camp or the Colin Todd Hut.

Day 11: Climbing
We will have a practice day of climbing on one of the neighboring peaks, such as Mount Bevan, Mount French or the Rolling Pin.

Day 12: Climbing
This is the day we will make our summit climb. If weather conditions don't cooperate, this will serve as our weather contingency day. The ascent of Mount Aspiring typically takes 14-16 hours and the guide ratio for the climb will be 1 guide-to-2 clients. To achieve this ratio, we will have been joined by additional guides during our stop in Wanaka. With an impressive summit under our belts, it will be time to start the walk out via Bevan Col or French Ridge to the cool forested floor of the West Matukituki Valley. We will bivvy out overnight or stay at the Colin Todd Hut or the French Ridge Hut.

Day 13: Begin Walk Out to Aspiring Hut
If we've had to utilize the previous day as our weather contingency day, we will attempt to summit Mount Aspiring today. With the summit under our belts, we will begin the walk out via Bevan Col or French Ridge to the West Matukituki Valley. We will bivvy out overnight or stay at the Aspiring Hut.

Day 14: Return to Wanaka
At the end of the morning's two-hour trek, we will be met by our vehicles at the end of the road. From there, it is only a one-hour drive to Wanaka and our much-deserved celebratory meal. There will be much to remember, and much to recount, after an action-packed twelve days in which we've learned how to climb in high alpine environments and then summited one of New Zealand's

Descending on steeper ground. (Southern Alps, New Zealand)

prettiest Main Divide peaks, Mount Aspiring, at a height of 9,900 feet (3,027 meters). After returning any rental equipment, we will either depart late in the day for Queenstown or we will overnight in Wanaka.

Days 15-16: Return to Queenstown
We will spend our last few days in Queenstown, exploring its many wonders and testing our bravery and skills as we participate in its many adventure activities (bungy jumping, whitewater rafting, jet boating, etc.).

Day 17: Depart for Home
Unless we've given in to the urge to extend our trip in order to enjoy other New Zealand destinations, we will transfer to the airport for our flights home.

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