Expedition Summary
This trip provides a nearly comprehensive overview of the Kingdom of Bhutan, particularly emphasizing the traditional arts, crafts and architecture and religious history. We take you through the countryside, stopping to visit Bhutanese craft professionals. We have designed departure dates to coincide with various festivals, offering you the opportunity to witness and even participate in some of Bhutan’s most colorful and ancient traditions.

We will begin our tour in Paro, home of one of Bhutan’s largest, oldest and most spectacular dzongs – Paro Dzong. Paro is in the heart of the rich, fertile Paro Valley with beautiful landscapes, scenic villages and historic buildings all within the space of a few kilometers. Most famous, perhaps, is the Taktshang Monastery, famous for its location on the side of a cliff 900 meters (2,952 feet) above the valley floor.

Bhutanese dancers celebrating the 25th anniversary of the King's coronation. (Thimpu, Bhutan)

After exploring the western valley of Paro, where we will visit several thangka painters and weavers plus some of the most important monasteries, we will journey by vehicle to Bumthang, considered by many to be the religious and cultural heart of Bhutanese civilization. It is also known for its skilled textile weavers. The region is particularly revered by Bhutanese Buddhists because of the visits of Padmasambhava, a great master who brought a form of tantric Buddhism to Bhutan and many other parts of the Himalaya and Tibet in the 8th century. The valley is also the home of several noble households that were the focus of textile weaving in the early 20th century. Bumthang is famous for woodcarving, mask-making and weaving of Yahtra, a distinctive woolen fabric. By looking closely at the Kingdom's crafts and textiles and learning from world-class weavers and thangka painters, we also find ourselves learning a tremendous amount about the broader aspects of Bhutanese culture.

While in the Bumthang Valley, we will attend two very important festivals: the Jambay Lhakhang Drup Festival and the Prakar Tshechu Festival. The tsechu festivals of Bhutan are performed both to honor and reinforce the Buddhist teachings of Padmasambhava, also known as Guru Rinpoche. Iconographic representation of this saint are ubiquitous throughout Bhutan and Tibet. This Indian saint contributed enormously to the diffusion of Tantric Buddhism in the Himalayan regions of Tibet, Nepal, Bhutan etc. around 800 C.E. He is the founder of Nyingmapa, “old school” of Lamaism, which has numerous followers the world over. The biography of Guru Rimpoche is highlighted by 12 episodes modeled on the life of Buddha Shakyamuni’s life (560 B.C.E). The dates and the duration of the festivals vary from one district to another but they always take place on or around the 10th day of the month according to the Bhutanese lunar calendar. During tsechus, the dances are performed by monks and laymen alike. The tsechu is a religious festival and by attending it, according to local belief, one gains merits. It is also a yearly social gathering where the people come together to rejoice dressed in their best finery.

We will conclude our tour with several days in Thimpu, the least visited of all Himalayan capitals with one of the richest Buddhist histories of all Himalayan countries. Its unique architecture echoes a mix of Nepali and Central Tibetan styles and is immediately apparent and inviting. Thimpu’s brightly painted, elaborately decorated facades give the town a captivating medieval feel. Sites around town include the Late King's Memorial Chorten, the silversmith and pottery workshops, the traditional medicine hospitals, the Buddhist thangkha painting school and the National Library.

Join us for an unforgettable journey in Bhutan while renewing old HBS ties and making new connections.

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Trip Leader

Jon Miceler - Himalayan Studies Scholar and Bhutan Expert

Traditional Bhutanese building. (Thimpu, Bhutan)

Jon Miceler co-founded Global Adrenaline in February 2001. Jon made his first trip to Tibet in 1988 as an undergraduate at the University of Colorado, Boulder. Since that time he has returned yearly to guide in the Himalaya and adjacent ranges. He has studied classical Tibetan under Geshe Zopa at the University of Wisconsin and under Leonard van der Kuijp, current Chair of Tibetan and Himalayan Studies at Harvard University. In 1993 he moved to China in order to pursue Tibetan and Chinese language study. Jon was resident scholar of Himalayan Studies at the Southwest Institute for Nationalities in Sichuan province, China from 1994-1996. From 1990-2003 he has lead 2-3 expeditions, treks, climbs and cultural tours each year in China, Tibet, Bhutan and India. Beginning in 1995 he worked as a consultant to government of Sichuan province, PRC on integrated conservation and development projects. He has returned to Bhutan yearly since 1997 guiding groups on cultural treks throughout the country. After receiving his Masters in Environmental Science from Yale University in 2001, Jon was the recipient of a 2003 MacArthur Foundation three-year grant to carry out simultaneous cultural and environmental conservation projects on the eastern Bhutan/India border and the Indo/Myanmar border. In 2002 he was hired by the Royal Government of Bhutan to design new treks in central Bhutan’s Bumthang district. Jon continues his work today both a mountain guide and ecotourism development consultant. He speaks and reads Tibetan, Mandarin and Burmese. His interests are in the indigenous cultures of inner Asia with a particular focus on methods of conserving cultures and biodiversity in the region. Jon runs Global Adrenaline's Asia operations where he focuses on refining standard tours as well developing new areas for ecotourism throughout Asia.

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Experience Required
No experience is required for this trip.

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Trip Registration
A non-refundable deposit of $500 will guarantee your reservation. Full payment due Friday, July 23, 2004, three months prior to departure. For itineraries, more information or to register for this trip, please contact us:

Nancy Collins (MBA ’99) at Global Adrenaline, Inc.
nancy@globaladrenaline.com
or
Stephanie Goff at HBS Alumni Relations
sgoff@hbs.edu

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Trip Details

Dates:

October 23 - November 3, 2004

Cost:

$5,000 in double rooms
$6,000 in single rooms

Includes:

• Global Adrenaline Bhutan expert and tour leader
• Local Bhutanese guides
• International flights between Bangkok and Bhutan (Bangkok – Bhutan – Bangkok)
• Bhutan entry visa arrangements
• 1 night accommodation in Bangkok
• 10 nights accommodation in Bhutan hotels and guest houses
• All meals while in Bhutan
• All transportation while in Bhutan
• All entrance fees to historical sites, monasteries, museums and temples

Does Not Include:

• International USA – Bangkok – USA flights (approximately $800 to $1,000)
• Airport taxes ($20 in Thailand, $40 in Bhutan)
• Bhutan entry visa ($20 paid on arrival)
• Hotels and meals in Bangkok (discretionary)
• Beverages (discretionary)
• Tips and gratuities (discretionary)
• Travel insurance (discretionary)
• Phone calls, laundry and other items of a purely personal nature (discretionary)

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Day by Day Itinerary

October 23rd: Arrive in Bangkok

Paro Dzong (Paro, Bhutan).

Today we will arrive in Bangkok and transfer to our hotel for the night. Please note that the group flight from Bangkok to Paro is scheduled to depart early in the morning on October 24th. So, it is important for you to arrive into Bangkok on October 23rd in order to travel with the group to/from Bhutan. In the evening, we will meet up with the rest of our group for dinner at our hotel. Overnight at the Amari Airport Hotel.

October 24th: Fly from Bangkok to Bhutan
Today we will fly from Bangkok to Bhutan on Druk Air, the national Bhutanese national airline. This flight is one of the most spectacular of all mountain flights. The view from the plane will be unforgettable, as we look out across many of the major peaks of the Himalaya, including Everest, Makalu and Kangchendzonga, three of the world's highest mountains. As we descend into the Paro Valley, we will enjoy splendid views of alpine forests, small monasteries, temples and flat-roofed farm houses. The first free gift you’ll receive from Bhutan will be the cool, clean fresh air you feel as you step out of the plane. The second will be the warm welcome we’ll receive from our Bhutanese hosts. The Paro Valley is enchanting. A single road lined with willows, clear mountain streams and families working in the rice paddies, with one of Bhutan's most impressive dzongs (fortresses) rising above it all, creates a memorable first impression. We will drive the short distance to the Druk Hotel, a sanctuary nestled in the hills above Paro in one of Bhutan's most picturesque towns. (L, D)

October 25th: Paro Valley
Today we will spend the day journeying (mostly by 4WD vehicle) around Paro valley, taking in some of the most spectacular natural and manmade structures in the valley. The highlight for many will be our hike up to the remains of the famous "Tiger's Nest," the Taksang monastery spectacularly situated on a cleft in a 2,000 foot granite wall. Here it is said that the legendary Indian tantric Buddhist master, Padmasambhava, flew from Tibet on the back of a tiger to defeat five demons opposing the spread of Buddhism in Bhutan. This is the most spectacular setting of any monastery in Bhutan, and the walk is well worthwhile. For those less interested in the exercise and a close view of the temple, the first hour of the hike is relatively flat, and often, nearby villagers will have handicrafts for sale along the trail. Those who do not go all the way up will have the opportunity to visit Bhutan’s oldest temple, Kyichu, which houses some of the most beautiful frescos in the entire country. We will have a picnic lunch and then dinner back at the Druk Hotel. (B, L, D)

October 26th: Paro to Trongsa

Bhutanese child monks. (Bhutan)

Our journey into central Bhutan begins today. We depart early for our drive to Trongsa which will take approximately 6 to 7 hours. The road winds through forests to the Dochu La (10,000 feet) -- la means pass -- where in good weather 200 miles of Himalayan summits are in view. Especially note the intricate pattern of emerald-green fields laced together by irrigation ditches. We will continue pas the fortress of Wangdiphodrang and begin following the Dang Chu River drainage up toward its source. We climb steadily, passing through semi-tropical vegetation -- banana plants and cactus -- to pine forests and then to an alpine environment of rhododendrons and dwarf bamboo, finally reaching the Pele La (10,825 feet). On the way to Trongsa, we will stop for our picnic lunch at Chendebji Chorten, a shrine of ancient lineage built on the old walking trail across the country. The first sight of Trongsa Dzong, the largest in Bhutan, is from across the valley, but the road winds another 20 kilometers before reaching the town itself. We will have a chance to explore the shops of Trongsa before continuing up the hill to the Trongsa Guesthouse, our home for the evening. (B, L, D)

October 27th: Trongsa to Bumthang Valley
After breakfast, we will visit the Trongsa Dzong and Ta Dzong, the ancient watch tower and spend a bit of time walking through town. In the Ta Dzong, the former watchtower above the dzong, there is a room in the top chapel dedicated to Gesar of Ling, the most famous epic hero of Tibet somewhat like a Tibetan version of Ulysses. After lunch we will continue on to Jakar, the central village of the Bumthang district. Our drive to Bumthang today only takes 3 hours. As we enter the Chume Valley (the first of the four valleys which comprise the Bumthang Valley) we will visit several centers of yathra weaving. Yathra is the name for the locally produced hand-woven woolen cloth. Distinctive patterns and bright, earthy colors enliven the fabric, which is used for a wide variety of purposes and sought after throughout Bhutan. As we continue on towards our guest house, as many travelers have commented on our past trips, we may notice the palpable sense of well being and abundance that permeates this valley. Perhaps this is why so many of Bhutan’s legends and miraculous folklore have their roots in this exquisite part of the country. By mid-afternoon, we will arrive at our guesthouse, a rustic but comfortable Bhutanese lodge. If time permits, we will have a chance to explore the town of Jakar before dinner. (B, L, D)

October 28th: Bumthang Valley – Jambay Lhakhang Drup Festival
Today we will have a morning walking tour in the Bumthang Valley, noted as one of the most beautiful and sacred in Bhutan. This valley has a history hallowed in part by the frequent visits of Padmasambhava when he was bringing the Buddha's message to Bhutan. It was also the home of Pema Lingpa, Bhutan’s patron saint, who was responsible for the many of the smaller monasteries that dot the landscape in this region. Padmasambhava meditated in many local caves which now have temples and shrines associated with them. The valley is wide, filled with fields and villagers busy with their day's work. Jampel Lhakhang (lhakhang means temple), along with Kyichu Lhakhang in the Paro Valley, is one of the two oldest temples in Bhutan. It was built circa 750 by King Srongtsen Gampo of Tibet as part of his pledge to build l08 temples to the Buddha during his lifetime. One of the holiest of Bhutan's religious sites, Jampel is no longer open for visitors. We continue to Kurje, a 17th-century temple next to which a spectacular new monastery has been built in traditional style. We will spend the afternoon attending the Jambay Lhakhang Drup festival. That evening we rest at our Bumthang guest house. (B, L, D)

Jambay Lhakhang Drup Festival: October 28th – November 1st

Bhutanese man. (Thimpu, Bhutan)

In the 7th Century King Songtsen Gompo of Tibet established 108 Monasteries in one day in different provinces of Tibet and Bhutan. This was done to pacify negative energies thought by Buddhist geomancers to be causing mental and spiritual discord among Tibetans. The present Jambay Lhakhang is one of the 108 monasteries that this king established. Located in the heart of the Bumthang’s Chokhor valley, the monastery is one of Bhutan’s oldest and most precious. The monastery is shaped in the form of a “Bumpa” ( a religious artifact ). The festival depicts a classic tale of Buddhism triumphing over evil during the 8th century. The story begins when the world was in the hands of Barbarians fighting for power over the minds and lives of mankind. To the counter this, an early Buddha known as Jamba descended into this world from one of the many Buddhist heavens and began working to turn the people of this world into a religious and peace loving people. The valley of Chokhor was at this time infested with disease and misery under the domain of evil spirits. The King of the valley, Sindhu Raja, decided the only way to save his people but to invite Guru Padma Sambhava (a trans-historical Buddhist teacher of tantric Buddhism, known locally as Guru Rimpoche ) to the valley in order to subdue these evil spirits. Guru Padma Sambhava did this by performing the very dances which we will see performed at the festival. The result of these esoteric dances enabled the spread of tantric Buddhism in this valley which later spread all over the country. These dances must be performed each year by monks and tantric hermits in order to perpetuate the Buddhist teachings in Bhutan. During the 14th century a charismatic lama named Terton Dorji Lingpa introduce new Buddhist teachings given to him in vision by Guru Padma Sambhava in the form of the present dances depicted in the festival. Tulku Choeten Gempo, the descendent of Sindhu Raja maintained the performance of the dances in the Jambay Lhakhang Drup and made it mandatory for the people of the valley to teach the dances and maintain this performance every year on the 15th of the ninth month of the Bhutanese lunar calendar. The teachings are also passed down to their descendents in order to perpetuate harmony in the valley.

October 29th: Bumthang Valley – Prakar Tsechu Festival and Membartsho, the “Burning Lake”

Bhutanese man. (Thimpu, Bhutan)

We will begin the day attending the Prakar Tsechu Festival. After a picnic lunch, we will begin our afternoon with a short drive to the end of the Tang Valley. Along the way we will stop at several important religious pilgrimage sites, including Membartsho, the “burning lake," and Rimochen Lhakhang. We will then walk through the surrounding village before returning to Jakar. This afternoon we will visit a woodcarving center, where we will observe the production of hand-carved wooden masks and traditional Bhutanese furniture. (B, L, D)

Prakar Tshechu Festival: October 29th – 31st
This annual festival is held in Prakhr village in Chumey Valley. The village is about 30 km from Jakar where the Jambay Drup takes place. This religious dance was introduced in the early 17th century by the son of Pema Lingpa. Pema Lingpa is the patron saint of Bhutan. He is believed to have had many visionary experiences during which he was given esoteric Buddhist teachings. Once a year the people of Prakar village conduct religious ceremonies in the form of festival dances to appease the local deities and for peace and prosperity. There is also a harvest dedication ceremony. This festival has more of an earthy feel to it, in that it is festival that propitiates both Buddhist and animistic spirits thought to provide abundant harvest and health.

October 30th: Bumthang Valley to Phobjika Valley
We return over the Pele La, and about 45 minutes past the pass will detour onto a side road that leads us to the hidden valley of Phobjikha. Considered one of the most beautiful valleys in Bhutan, it is encircled by pine- covered mountains. In the center of the valley, rising from a small ridge, stands one of the oldest and wealthiest private monasteries in Bhutan: Gangtey Gompa. The area is equally famous as the winter home to the very rare black-necked crane. Experts estimate that fewer than 6000 cranes exist in the wild. The cranes arrive in mid- November and stay through March.

Bhutan's holiest peak, Mount Jomo Lhari, from the road to Paro.(Mount Jomo Lhari, Bhutan)

We also will have the opportunity to visit the courtyard of the Gangtey Gompa. The head lama of Gangtey Gompa is the ninth incarnation of the body of Pemalingpa, a famous 14th-century blacksmith from Bumthang who is one of Bhutan's most famous Buddhist saints and teachers. Our accommodations will be in a traditional Bhutanese manor house that has been converted to a rustic guesthouse. Gangteng Guesthouse. (B, L, D)

October 31st: Phobjika Valley to Punakha
This morning we will enjoy an exhilarating day hike to the surrounding villages and have a chance to visit with monks who live in the Gangtey monastery. We then continue our journey to the Punakha Valley. Our next stop will be Punakha Dzong, the ancient capital of Bhutan. The massive dzong, built at the confluence of the Po (male) and Mo (female) rivers, was built in 1647 by Shabdrung Ngawang Namgyal and is the winter home of the Central Monk Body. The monk body moves from Thimpu to Punakha during the winter so, depending on the time of year, we may or may not be allowed access into the courtyards of this fortress.

After a leisurely exploration of the Punakha Valley, we will drive to our home for the evening, Zangto Pelri. Named after the celestial palace of Padmasambhava, our hotel is located above the valley, with dramatic views of terraced paddy fields and snow-capped peaks. Recently built, the Zangto Pelri has comfortable rooms with attached baths and hot running water. (B, L, D)

November 1st: Punakha to Thimpu
Early morning departure to Dochu La for a chance to view the Bhutanese Himalaya (if the weather is clear). In the early afternoon, we will return to the nation’s capital, Thimpu. As we enter the Thimpu Valley we will pass by Simtokha, the dzong built in 1629 by Shabdrung Ngawang Namgyal, who unified Bhutan. Simtokha is the oldest of the dzongs, originally serving as a fortress to protect the region, an administrative center and the center for the monks' religious activity. Its prayer wheel alcoves contain slate carvings of Buddhist deities that date from the construction of the dzong. Simtokha now houses a language school where scholars of all ages study Dzongkha, the national language. It is also used for religious functions of Tibetan Buddhism’s oldest sect known as Nyingma.

Young Monks (Thimpu, Bhutan)

Thimpu, situated at an elevation of 8,000 feet, is the least known and most exclusive of the Himalayan capitals. Thimpu is the only large settlement in Bhutan with a population of about 30,000. It also has one of the richest Buddhist histories in all the Himalaya. Its unique architecture echoes a mix of Nepali and Central Tibetan styles and is immediately apparent and inviting. Sites around town include the Late King's Memorial Chorten, the silversmith and pottery workshops, the traditional medicine hospitals, the Buddhist thangkha painting school, and the National Library where ancient archives are carefully stored in this repository of religious and historical texts. We have allotted time here for shopping in Thimpu's wonderful outdoor markets and bazaars, where some of Asia's finest textiles can be found. For the non-shoppers among us, there is no shortage of sightseeing opportunities.

Upon reaching Thimpu, we will check into the Druk Hotel. This afternoon we will visit the massive Tashichho Dzong, the “fortress of the glorious religion”. This vast building, constructed totally by hand and without a single nail, is home to government offices, the King's audience chambers, the Je Khempo - head of the Drukpa Kagyu lineage of Mahayana Buddhism in Bhutan, the National Assembly, a multitude of temples and many, many monks. In the late afternoon, we will visit the Memorial Chorten. Here, the faithful circumambulate a shrine dedicated to the late King, Jigme Dorji Wangchuck. If we have time, we may also visit some of the workshops where young people are trained to continue the handicraft tradition. Some are busy making masks for religious dances, while others are learning the ancient art of thangka painting. After spending the afternoon experiencing the sights and sounds of Bhutan's “most happening” town, we will meet in the evening as a group for dinner in the Druk Hotel. (B, L, D)

November 2nd: Thimpu to Paro

Bhutanese children playing. (Thimpu, Bhutan)

We have a full day to explore Thimpu and environs. Touring today might include the following: a visit to a nunnery, Thangkha painting school, a paper making facility, a drive to the end of the Thimpu Valley with views of the Dechencholing and a visit to the Royal Palace and several important temples. That afternoon we make the drive back to Paro, for our final night in Bhutan. We will have a special farewell dinner as we enjoy our last evening in Bhutan. (B, L, D)

November 3rd: Depart for Home
After breakfast, we return to the airport for our departure to Bangkok from the Land of the Thunder Dragon. Group arrangements end upon arrival in Bangkok. It is possible to connect to international flights home that same day. (B)

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For information on other HBS alumni trips, please visit our web page at www.alumni.hbs.edu/travel/