Peru It's the multiple layers of great civilizations
that make Peru so fascinating. Peru offers colonial cities that have preserved
the legacy of the Spanish conquistadors, the ancient Incan capital of
Cuzco, the lost city of Machu Picchu and the enigma of the Nazca Lines.
Visitors to Peru soon learn that the "New World" had already
lived a rich and convoluted life before the Spaniards ever set foot on
its shores.
A wealth of cultural and historical
splendors exists in concert with some of the most spectacular
Inca ruins on the trail to Machu Pichu. (Peru)
and varied scenery on the South American continent.
The Peruvian Andes, arguably the most soaringly beautiful on the continent,
are inhabited by millions of highland Indians who still speak the ancient
tongue of Quechua, while maintaining their traditional ways of life. The
verdant Amazon Basin, which occupies half of Peru, is one of the world's
top 10 biodiversity 'hot spots,' a species-rich area of tropical rain forest
that makes visitors' heads spin. And the coastal deserts, with their huge
rolling dunes, farmland oases and fishing villages, are under appreciated
by travelers but offer the opportunity to get off the beaten path in a most
fulfilling way. But make no mistake: Peru is open for business to more than
just zoologists, anthropologists and mountain climbers. To enjoy its many
splendors, all its visitors need is a keen eye, a love of landscape and
an interest in history.
Peru borders on Chile (to the south), Bolivia (to the
southeast), Brazil (to the northeast), Colombia (to the north) and Ecuador
(to the northwest). It has three major regions: a narrow coastal belt,
the wide Andean mountains and the Amazon Basin. The coastal strip is predominantly
desert, but it contains Peru's major cities and its best highway, the
Carratera Panamericana (the "Pan-American Highway"). The Andes
comprise two principal ranges, the Cordillera Occidental and the Cordillera
Oriental, and include Huascarán, at 22,200 feet (6,770 meters)
Peru's highest mountain. To the east is the Amazon Basin, a region of
tropical lowland, drained by the Maranon and Ucayali rivers.
Bird and marine life is abundant along Peru's desert
coast, with colonies of sea lions, Humboldt penguins, Chilean flamingoes,
Peruvian pelicans, Inca terns and endemic brown boobies. Common highland
birds include the Andean condor, puna ibis and hummingbirds. The highlands
are also home to creatures in the camel family, such as llamas, alpacas,
guanacos and vicuñas. The eastern slopes of the Andes are haunted
by jaguars, spectacled bears and tapirs.
Lima Lima, Peru's capital, is overcrowded, polluted,
noisy and prone to bad weather. Nevertheless, the
Local Peruvian culture. (Cuzco)
city's inhabitants are friendly and hospitable,
opportunities for dining and nightlife are ample and the city has a great
selection of museums. A project is now underway to restore the city's
colonial center, so there is hope for Lima yet.
Attractions include the Museo de Oro del Peru, which
has numerous artifacts of gold, silver and precious stones, and the Museo
Nacional de Antropología y Arquelogía, noted for its excellent
exhibits focusing on prehistoric Peru. Churches such as San Francisco
(famous for its catacombs) and Santo Domingo (dating back to around 1540)
provide a welcome respite from the clamor in the streets outside. Lima's
many markets, including Polvos Azules, overflow with consumer goods and
handicrafts. The city also boasts expansive plazas, lovely colonial buildings
and a zoo.
Cuzco (Cusco) If the Incas were the Romans of pre-Columbian
America, Cuzco was their Rome. The Incas built a vast empire that stretched
from present-day Ecuador and Colombia through the southern limits of present-day
Chile. The empire, much larger in size than any previous New World empire,
was called Tawantinsuyo, the 'Four Quarters of the Earth.' Cuzco, the
oldest continuously-inhabited city on the continent, was the heart of
this vast empire. Its main square was the exact center of the
The thrilling 'Last Laugh' rapid on the Apurimac
River - tributary of the Amazon. (Apurimac River, Peru)
empire, from whence all of the empire's glories
radiated. The preeminence of the city in Incan times is still recognizable
today, still evident amidst the colonial riches left by its Spanish conquerors.
The sixteenth-century cathedral and the La Merced Church are magnificent
repositories of Spanish art and sculpture.
Cuzco today is still laid out much as it was in Inca times. Seen from
above, it takes the form of a puma, with the river Tullumay forming its
spine, Sacsayhuaman its head, and the main city center its body. The center
(the torso of the puma) is a tongue of land bordered on the east side
by the Tullumay and on the west by the Huatanay, two ancient rivers that
today run under concrete. But Cuzco was more than just a capital city
to the Incas. It was also their holy city, a place of pilgrimage as important
to the Quechuas as Mecca is to the Moslems.
Cuzco is a thriving market town, where goods and services
of every variety imaginable are spread out before its visitors' wondering
eyes. The city assaults all of the senses, as the bustling city sounds
greet ears and the aromas of spicy local kitchens tantalize noses. Colorful
locals and smiling merchants display their wares, as they busily vie for
the visitor's attention. Above the Plaza De Armas, the modern town square,
the second-floor balconies of terraced restaurants provide an excellent
vantage point for enjoying a cool drink and watching the action below.
Sacred Valley of the Incas
The Urubamba Valley, or Sacred Valley of the Incas, is a setting of picturesque
communities, impressive terraces and many important archeological sites.
Dominated by the imposing peaks of the Vilcanota mountain range, the valley
has been the storehouse for agricultural products for the city of Cuzco
since Inca times, and today is famous for being home to maize cobs, the
sacred food of the Incas, with the largest kernels in the world. The valley
includes the area between the Inca communities of Pisac and Ollantaytambo.
Its mild weather and particular geography make it ideal for outdoor sports
enthusiasts to practice rafting, mountain biking, hang-gliding and trekking.
Pisac
Agricultural terraces. (Moray, Peru)
There's a very good reason why all Sacred Valley tours visit Pisac and
Ollantaytambo, and we don't miss either of these on our visit either!
Every Tuesday, Thursday and Sunday the village of Pisac hosts the largest
indigenous market in the Cusco region. Farmers from the highlands decend
upon the valley to barter and sell all sorts of goods ranging from corn
and potatoes to sheep, llamas and mules! With so many visitors coming
to see the local market, a "gringo" market sprung up years ago
too. Here, you can feast your eyes on the vibrant colors of Andean textiles
and ceramics.
High above the present day village of Pisac, lie the impressive Pisac
ruins. The ruined city provides one of the finest examples of Inca archeological
achievement. The main buildings of the ruins are built with precision
cut blocks of stone. The blocks are cut perfectly straight on all sides.
Although no mortar was ever used, the walls of Pisac have withstood numerous
earthquakes and years of harsh weather. Pisac has two obvious sections
of dwellings. The upper section is of poorer construction than the lower
section and archeologists speculate that the upper segment housed residents
of lower social status. This is speculations and others others believe
it was merely the first and temporary residence of Inca nobility until
the nicer section below was completed. Below the main buildings are some
of the most impressive pre-Columbian terraces in Peru. The terraces are
masterly layed out with diagonal stone steps inlaid in the terrace walls
for easy access from terrace to terrace. The terraces reach almost down
to the village a thousand feet below.
Ollantaytambo
Corn, the local diet staple. (Peru)
Our Peru tours end their journey in the Sacred Valley in the village of
Ollantaytambo. We arrive late in the day after the buses of visitors have
returned to Cusco, and so we get to enjoy the local hospitality and charm
in easy peace. Ollantaytambo lies at the gateway to the Amazon rainforest
along the mighty Urubamba River. From here, all visits to Machu Picchu
or treks along the Inca Trail begin. Ollantaytambo itself is a gem for
the visitor that few people get to know. The enormous Inca fortress that
towers over the village is steeped in history. It is here that the invading
Conquistadors of Pizarro met their first and one of their only defeats
at the hands of the Incas. Utilizing thousands of men, the Incas diverted
the nearby Urubamba River to flood the plane below the ruins. Pizarro's
horses were made nearly useless in the resulting mud and muck. Upon seeing
the fast flowing Urubamba River, visitors get an idea of the near super
human feat of diverting such a natural force with little more than stone
tools.
In the village below the ruined citadel, houses are built atop Inca masonry.
Most streets are two narrow for a car and rows of houses are whitewashed
in typical Colonial fashion. If you visit the ruins at twilight or after
dark, the silent stone walls seem to whisper with the voices of the ancient
battle. In the early morning, Ollantaytambo hums with activity as young
men with bright colored ponchos prepare to set out on the Inca Trail,
young boys and fathers wander by herding a cow and the family sheep, and
women in striped and checkered aprons chat with each other in doorways
after cleaning up the morning breakfast. Ollantaytambo is a favorite for
travelers fortunate enough to discover its charms after the tourist busses
have left.
Arequipa Nicknamed the 'white city,' Arequipa is surrounded
by spectacular mountains, including the volcano, El Misti. The city is
renowned for its many beautiful buildings constructed of a light-colored
volcanic rock called sillar. The Convento de Santa Catalina, perhaps the
most fascinating colonial religious building in the country, was, until
recently, home to almost 450 nuns. Many of the city's beautiful colonial
houses, such as Casa Ricketts, are now used as art galleries or museums.
The Colca Canyon, arguably the world's deepest canyon, is a popular excursion
from Arequipa.
Inca Trail The whole of Peru was once criss-crossed with
Inca and pre-Inca highways, paved with thick
Our trekking route to Machu Picchu. (Machu
Picchu Trek, Peru) - A (photo with cactus in front)
interlocking blocks of stone. Sometimes these
highways followed the valleys, but just as often they traversed the high
mountainsides, tracing impossible pathways across narrow ledges over the
bottomless gorges of the Andes. The trails were built for men on foot
and their lightly-burdened llamas. Frequently, their gradients gave way
to steps, tunnels and long zig-zag trajectories down steep faces. The
part of the trail that is traditionally trekked was once the royal highway
to Machu Picchu. The trail was rediscovered by Hiram Bingham in 1915.
Few relatively short hikes in the world can offer such variety of scenery,
staggering views, and jungle and high sierra ecologies. Certainly no other
walk will lead you along an ancient highway from one secluded ruin to
another, each in a breathtaking setting, each almost perfectly preserved,
offering shelter, solitude, and views that no pen or camera can ever adequately
record.
Machu Picchu Machu Picchu is a perfectly-preserved Inca city
that was lost in the dense jungle for hundreds of
Machu Picchu. (Machu Picchu Trek, Peru)
years. Machu Picchu, or "ancient peak,"
is perhaps the most famous and awe-inspiring of all of the ruins discovered
during the 20th century. Remains of the ancient city's dwellings and temples
reveal that they were serviced by an impressive and extensive network
of aqueducts and fountains. Little is known about the fate of the city's
inhabitants. They may have been wiped out by epidemic or forgotten while
seeking refuge during the political struggles that predated the arrival
of the Spaniards. Discovered less than a century ago, the ruins of the
magnificent city of Machu Picchu allows its visitors to step back in time
and experience the wonder of living in a stone-hewn ancient Inca city.
Lake Titicaca
Lake Titicaca, situated at an elevation of 12,530
feet (3,820 meters), is the highest navigable lake in the world. More
than 105 miles (170 kilometers) long, it is also the largest lake in South
America. Its altitude means that the air is unusually clear and the azure
waters are particularly striking. Interesting boat excursions can be taken
from Puno, the major port on the lake. The area is also known for its
folk dances and huge herds of alpacas and llamas.
People Approximately 45% of Peru's population is Native
American, while a similarly significant
Peruvian children. (Peru)
percentage (37%) is mestizo, the descendants
of the Native Americans and their Spanish conquerors. Approximately 15%
of the population is of European descent (primarily Spanish), with the
remaining three percent comprised of the descendants of Japanese, Chinese
and African immigrants. In recent years, Asians have had a disproportionate
effect on the country's fortunes, as epitomized by the recent election
of a descendant of Japanese immigrants, Alberto Fujimori, as president.
The descendants of the Quechua and Aymara peoples populate the highlands.
Approximately 72% of the population is concentrated in urban areas. Peru
has three official languages, Spanish, Quechua and Aymara. Most Peruvians
practice Roman Catholicism, owing in part to its status as the state church
until 1979.
Travel Tips Lima and traditional tourist areas such as Cuzco
and Machu Picchu are considered safe, but care should be exercised at
all times. Areas where the government is conducting counter-insurgency
campaigns have been designated 'emergency areas' and are, quite naturally,
off-limits to visitors.
Street markets. (Peru)
The Upper Huallaga Valley in the Amazon, home
to drug barons and Shining Path guerrillas, is definitely off-limits.
Travelers to the country are advised to consult the U.S. State Department's
consular warning for the latest information on security issues in Peru.
In 1998, Ecuador and Peru negotiated a settlement to
their long-running border dispute. Peru retained a majority of the region
in question, save for a 247-acre portion known as Tiwintza, a parcel successfully
defended by Ecuadorian troops in the 1995 skirmishes.
In the wake of Alberto Fujimori's controversial reelection
in May, 2000, and his subsequent resignation and flight into exile, the
U.S. State Department posted a public warning that political demonstrations
are becoming 'larger and more frequent.' Stability appears to have returned
to the more-commonly visited parts of the country as the government of
President Toledo has become more established.
Temperature/Weather The only thing predictable about Peru's weather is its unpredictability.
In fact, it's not uncommon to experience all four seasons in a single
day. Peru's climate can be divided
Peruvian children. (Peru)
into two seasons, wet and dry, although the apparent simplicity of this
classification scheme breaks down depending on the geographical region
in question.
In the Andes, the dry season is from May through October, but even the
mountains' wet season isn't always really wet and the dry season sees
its share of downpours. Temperatures during the day in the dry season
can get hot making shorts rather inviting. At night, temperatures can
drop quickly and a warm sweater makes walking around the plazas comfortable.
On the eastern slopes of the Andes, the drier months are similar to those
in the highlands, although the wet season (January to April) is more pronounced.
Peru's peak tourist season is from June through August, which is the dry
season in the highlands. Travelers visit the highlands throughout the
year, although the wettest months, January through April, sometimes make
trekking a muddy proposition. Many of the country's major fiestas occur
in the wettest months and continue undiminished despite the heavy rain.
On the coast, Peruvians visit the beaches during the sunny months from
late December through March, although few beaches are particularly enticing.
The rest of the year, the coastline is clothed in mist and coastal fog
or "garúa".
The Amazon experiences...you guessed it, rain heat and more rain and
heat! The average daytime temperature is 30-32º C (85-90º F),
while nights can cool down to 20º C (68º F). They do have wet
and wetter seasons, although travelers visit year-round, since it rarely
rains for more than a few hours at a time. The wettest months are December
to April and the driest wet months are from May to October corresponding
with the dry season in the highlands.
Reading List In order to make the most of your trip to Peru,
the following reading lists
will help you gain a better understanding of the landscape, culture and
people. Here you can also purchase any books you might need for your Global
Adrenaline trip!
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